Inking History

Ensconed in the heart of the city, a little shop that repairs pens becomes an indellible part of Kolkata's heritage with its vintage collection.

Kolkata is as comfortable with Harley Davidsons as it is with trams. There’s never been a discordant note between the grand old Coffee House of College Street and the swanky CCDs. In keeping with its tradition of living comfortably with history, the city harbours a unique Pen Hospital in Esplanade. Riaz Ahmed is the proud owner of Pen Hospital, the only shop in Kolkata and, perhaps, all of eastern India that repairs, restores and sells vintage pens to fond collectors all across the country and even on foreign shores. 

Started by Ahmed’s grandfather, Shamsuddin Ahmed, some 80 years ago, the 8 ft by 12 ft decrepit, dimly lit shop is home to classic models of Parker, Sheaffer, Mont Blanc and many more. From the rare Parker 51s and Sheaffer PFMs to the latest Dunhills and Cartiers to their cheap replicas and Chinese Wing Sung pens, the shop has a priceless collection neatly stacked in glass cabinets. Originally located on Chowringhee Road in Esplanade, the pen kiosk had to shift in 2000 due to the construction of the Metro subway.

Against the backdrop of a Victorian building, it continues to do brisk business, undeterred by the slipping relevance of pens in the touchpad world.

The irony is hard to ignore when the temporary stalls selling cheap clothes leave the pen kiosk almost invisible. Tourists, looking for a brush with history, often miss it but that doesn’t dampen Ahmed’s spirits, who shrugs it off saying, “People who come regularly surely know its location.” Ramendra Bhattacharya, 76, saunters into the shop in the cold afternoon. He has brought a patient along— a Sheaffer Snorkel of 1925 make. Bhattacharya had found the pen in a crowded bus nearly 45 years ago, and had immediately fallen in love with it.

Though slightly discoloured, the pen is in good condition and required only a minor fix. “It is the only place to get the pen repaired,” says Bhattacharya, handing over Rs 150 to the ‘doctor’. Deepika Rawat had inherited a Parker from her mother but it was in need of an urgent fix. “I didn’t know where to take ‘her’. One of my friends told me about this shop,” she says, adding that it was Ahmed who told her that her prized possession was a1940-make Parker 51.Ahmed is no stranger to the vagaries of his customers and knows the numbers are slowly dwindling. His elder brother, Imtiaz, expresses grave concern over the shop’s future but Ahmed is determined to keep it open. The show must go on, he believes. “What will happen to those who need to fix their prized pens? Where will they go?” Ahmed ponders.

The dogged determination of the pen ‘doctor’ is obvious when he says, “It is the love for classic pens that keeps us going. The Parker 51s and Sheaffer Lifetimes, dating back to the1940s, are collectors’ editions. They last for generations, but aren’t made anymore.”

Imtiaz Ahmed at his Pen Shop (Picture courtesy: Fountain Pen Network)

Ahmed himself is a diligent pen collector. “Sometimes, we procure the pens from salesmen who collect them from homes that do not have any need for old pens. Sometimes, sellers just walk up to the shop and exchange old pens for fresh models. I restore the old priceless pens for my patrons,” he says. Unlike newer models, the old makes have complex and intricate features and require deft handling. “Every model has a unique feature, which is often minute and complex,” Ahmed explains. He inherited most of the tips from his father but learnt to improvise as he took over the reins of the shop. Looking pained, he admits that sometimes he has to use cheap replacements but keeps it as close to the original as possible. Ahmed feels exotic pens still sell handsomely and collectors are always on the lookout for a good bargain. “If you visit the malls, you will find these William Penn shops selling pens for thousands of rupees. They are definitely getting good buyers, aren’t they?” Ahmed reckons.“Unlike vintage pens, the Dunhills and Cartiers selling today will surely need repairing in four or five years,” he adds.

Ahmed’s shop attracts visitors even from foreign shores. Fifty-year-old Andrea Kirkby, a retired scribe from the UK, has been touring India since August. She heard about the shop from a fellow traveller in Madhya Pradesh. An avid pen collector, she manipulated her tight schedule to visit the shop — and she has no regrets. She found all her favourites lined up neatly in the tacky glass cabinet. She craves to own a Pelican but settled for Wing Sung instead due to budget restrictions.

As dusk sets in, chain smoking Ahmed lights up a cigarette and heads for a nearby tea stall, but hurries back to his shop as another customer appears in sight. The young man has brought a Mont Blanc for repair. The doctor examines the pen closely and gives his verdict: an 80-year-old pen, which currently costs Rs 20,000. He cautiously runs his ink-stained fingers over the pen and opens his tool kit. The noises grow quieter outside, as the doctor and his client lose themselves in the beautiful world of vintage pens.